"Rostock Build Tips"

~Building Tips for your Rostock Max~



  1. Verify all of the parts came with your order!

  2. Inspect each bag and use a black felt tip pen to mark the description directly on the bag - You'll thank me later.

  3. When seperating the parts from the boards, Always Flip the Laser sides down on the table and press down to pop out. This prevents the veneer edges from ripping.

  4. Use a small screw driver to pop out the recessed holes in all the boards.

  5. Use a small drill bit to clean out by hand the excess material from the holes

  6. If your Motor was prewired like mine, You dont need the pin connectors.

  7. The tooth gears are visually different than the manual.

  8. When installing all of the boards for the base on each axis, Install the motors first.

  9. Load all SS nuts into the boards and securely tape them into place before assembling each section.

  10. To install the SS nuts there is no need of a needle nose in the assembly. Simply attach them on a long screw first and twist slightly while applying pressure on the key hole. The nuts will pop right in.

  11. When installing the toothed inserts use the screws supplied. Finger tighten with a screw, apply glue and tighten with a screw driver.

  12. When installing the base platform, lay the base assembly on the floor to get more leverage and apply pressure on the center while you wiggle and lightly pound the edges of the platform with your other fist.

  13. You'll need a very small allen to assemble the rails on the base because the doors will obstruct their assembly.

  14. When aligning your rails on the base, keep the square on the rails and tighten up all the left sides first then work around the platform and tighten the right sides. You may have to pull down on the top plate to help pull the twist out while tightening the right sides. otherwise, you'll fight the alignment continuously.

  15. When installing the limit switches, use a piece of 14 gauge wire as a snake. Run the wire up through the centers of the uprights and pull enough slack for the full length of the upright plus a foot.

  16. Bend the tabs of the limit switches before installing. attach the connector and pull the slack through when you mate the switch to the mount.

  17. Don't use socket head screws on the upper side of the idlers. Use pan head screws. The socket head screws are too thick for the limit adjuster screw.

  18. When they tell you to sand the parts.. file them with a basterd file first. There is alot of material that needs to be removed. Eventually you'll get it close enough to sand.

  19. Use a digital caliper to align the cheep skate slides side-to-side while tightening. you'll want to pull evenly on the sides before adjusting your cam roller and back roller.

  20. When istalling the belt through the rail use a standard wire tie. Slide it through the slot on the slide and push the slide up. the belt will ride down the wire tie and come out of the slot with ease.

  21. For the Arm supports of the extruder head, use digital calipers to shape the fork. The fork should be below 0.1-.095 in order for the pivot to spin freely.

  22. Heat everything up before calibration. use a heat reactive "sales" reciept for calibrating extruder head to the base. When the head contacts the paper during a drag its obvious.

  23. Never, Never, Never press "home all" during calibration use plus or minus Z for height calibration.